Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
